Dumplings grow on trees at this wildly inventive restaurant

Fusion Dumpling in San Francisco’s Chinatown isn’t your typical dumpling restaurant. Pan-fried bao are served like edible food art, perched on miniature tree displays. Noodles are served in a bowl made entirely of ice. And the duck is presented in a wooden box handmade by the chef.

Created by Jiayi “Jenny” Wu and award-winning chef Truman Du in 2023, Fusion Dumpling combines the flavors of Shanghai (where Wu grew up) with Sichuan (where Du grew up). Du cooked for Chinese presidents and was a culinary performer for the U.S. military, according to PR representative Jenny Chan, and the menu at Fusion Dumpling reflects that — think crab meat lo mein suspended in midair on gravity-defying chopsticks.

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All the dumplings, bao and noodles are made in-house, with the Shanghai-style soup dumplings featuring a dumpling skin slightly more thick and chewy than traditional. Wu recommends trying the spicy pork soup dumpling (six pieces for $16), featuring the spice of Sichuan with the juicy Shanghai soup dumpling, as well as the pan-fried pork soup bao (six pieces for $17).

A bowl of chilled noodles in a spicy sauce, topped with cucumber, cherry tomatoes, radish slices, peanuts, and fresh parsley, served in an ice bowl on a red stand. — Sichuan cold noodles are served in an ice bowl at Fusion Dumpling in San Francisco ($19). (Adrienne Mitchel)

Nontraditional dumplings include black truffle and wagyu soup dumplings (also available as a pan-fried soup bao) and a cheese and corn pan-fried bao. Pan-fried bao are served on a tree sculpture, with parsley and frisée acting as tree leaves.

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Fusion Dumpling offers a variety of vegetarian options, such as Shanghai sticky rice shumai, steamed vegetable bao, vegetable dumplings, ma po tofu and uniquely presented Sichuan cold noodles — the peanutty and mouth-numbing noodles are served in an ice bowl.

A wooden restaurant table with two decorative black tree-shaped stands displaying six steamed bao buns in white paper liners. Some buns are topped with black sesame seeds or small garnishes. In the background, slightly out of focus, are a bamboo steamer filled with dumplings, a large bowl of salad, two orange-colored drinks, and slices of red velvet cake, creating the setting of a shared dim sum meal. — From left, pan-fried black truffle and wagyu soup dumplings and cheese and corn pan-fried bao at Fusion Dumpling in San Francisco ($9-$15). (Adrienne Mitchel)

Sweet dumplings and bao are available for dessert, such as bao stuffed with nutty black sesame and xiao long bao bursting with Ghiradelli chocolate.

Wu, who’s lived in San Francisco for two decades, studied economics in college before delving into the restaurant industry. Her first restaurant, Spicy King, is still open today. Wu also owns Chong Qing Xiao Mian and created Pot and Noodle in 2017 before overhauling the concept and replacing it with Fusion Dumpling after the pandemic.

A wooden tray filled with sliced smoked duck, crispy duck skin, and tender shredded duck meat, served on a wire rack over a rustic wooden table. — Tea-smoked duck at Fusion Dumpling comes in a handmade wooden box ($30). (Adrienne Mitchel)

The restaurant, which seats about 50, features bright red walls and traditional Chinese roofing. Chinese porcelain panels hang on the wall, and a fish tank welcomes guests upon entry.

Wu said that her goal is to get Fusion Dumpling on the Michelin Guide and possibly launch Chinese omakase in the bar area of the restaurant. While she’s content with three restaurants, she may open another along the Peninsula in the future.

Fusion Dumpling, 650 Jackson St., San Francisco; 4150-981-0803, Instagram: @fusiondumplingsf. Open Sunday to Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.