A cafe by day and bar by night, Shoji in San Francisco has drawn long lines for its trendy matcha einspänner and burger served in a sizzling cheese fondue skillet.
Open for about a year, Shoji is the latest project from chef-owner Ingi “Shota” Son of the temporarily closed (and Michelin-starred) omakase restaurant The Shota. Shoji is known for its high-quality coffee and tea beverages, unique Japanese-inspired cocktails and contemporary izakaya-style dishes — all served in a speakeasy-style ambiance with red leather booths, dramatic red curtains and small tabletop lamps.
“One of the best bar scenes is happening in Japan. The cafe scene in Japan is awesome,” Son said. “So I go to Japan every year to experience that thing and talk to all the vendors, and I’ve learned their history and their stories and their craftsmanship. So I got motivation. I want to introduce this to the U.S.”
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The entrance to Shoji feels like a regular coffee shop, with white walls, a register and an espresso machine. The menu is succinct and a far departure from a syrup-heavy, cold foam-focused coffee shop. Beverage options include an espresso tonic made with blood orange peel; the Yuzucello, a single-origin espresso mocktail; and coconut lemonade co-fermented milk brew ($7.25-$7.50). The matcha einspänner, made with premium Uji matcha, sweet cream and kinako powder, was originally a seasonal special, but was added permanently to the menu due to its popularity ($7.25).
Guests may take their beverage to-go or walk through a noren, a Japanese fabric divider doorway curtain, to enter the bar area. The contrast between the coffee shop entry and the bar is stark – the lights are dim and the vibe is moody. A large mural is situated above the bar, inspired by Nijo Castle.
Walk through the bar to the back exit, and there’s a covered and heated outdoor patio. Depending on the day, there may be a pastry or dessert pop-up from a local vendor, such as Tiny Croissanterie or Ichigo Ichie Sweets.
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At night, Shoji transforms into a restaurant and bar. The food menu features bites such as French fries with akazu-aged vinegar aioli and tobiko ($10); small dishes including grilled Berkshire pork jowl with yuzu koshu, shinko pear and pineapple kimchi, and shishito pepper ($28); sandwiches such as the Shoji Burger, made with American cheese, caramelized onions, pickled cucumbers and jalapenos, served on beef tallow brioche and in a bubbling cheese bath ($28); and desserts including matcha affogato with strawberry marbled vanilla gelato, strawberry-rhubarb compote, pistachio crumble, matcha chocolate wafer and cream chantilly ($15).
The drink menu is innovative yet approachable, with Japanese twists on classic cocktails ($18-$20). Shoji offers a mule made with ginger, celery and green chartreuse; a French 75 with lychee and rose; and a margarita with kabosu citrus, lemongrass, makrut lime and kosho chili. Zero-proof options ($15-$18) include a nonalcoholic cocktail inspired by cold noodles, featuring roasted seaweed-infused nonalcoholic white rum, coconut, cucumber, pineapple, lime and sesame oil with a wasabi salt rim.
Son said that this is just the beginning for Shoji and that there’s a lot more innovation to come. He plans to launch lunch service early next year, offering high-quality quick-service yoshoku cuisine, and eventually develop Shoji’s own pastry program. As for The Shota, a new Japanese concept is in the works to replace it with an expected opening in September or October. But don’t worry — The Shota will be revived in a different location, Son said.
Shoji, 140 New Montgomery St. Suite 1, San Francisco; 628-233-1533, Instagram: @shoji_sf. Cafe hours: Monday to Friday from 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Bar hours: Tuesday to Saturday from 5-11 p.m.
